“This swell popped up and it was super hyped. Like “Biggest in Ten Years” big. Brixton was backing it, so I decided to get out there.
Board-wise; I had a shorty and a 5’8 slab board I designed with my shaper. On the way to the airport I picked up two stockies. Took me 24 hours to get there. Did my best to cut costs so I witnessed some weird shit on the way, I’ll save that story for another day. When I got there, it was about three times bigger than I expected.and to be honest, I felt pretty insignificant out there. The best big wave surfers in the world were all there wearing what they call an “impact vest”. Basically it’s a thick vest that is designed to help you float you to the top and protect your tail bone from heavy impact against coral.
Big Wednesday comes and I ride a stock 6’2″ and ended up wiping out so bad (I have trouble riding step ups) and I sat the rest of the day out and watched..it was terrifying, even from the beach. Honest. I knew the next day was gonna be solid as well and when I woke up it’s flames. I took a out my 5’8″ and got some really fun rides, I dare say I had the trip of my life.”
Filmed & Edited by Carlo Coral